Grecka Wielkanoc – wkładaj szpilki i bądź przed północą!… czwartek, 3 maja 2012

       Kiedy wychodziliśmy z mieszkania już właściwie zamykały mi się oczy. Za dwadzieścia minut miała bowiem wybić północ. Jak tylko zatrzasnęłam drzwi od samochodu, przeszła mi jednak chęć na spanie. Jani zaczął pędzić jak szalony – jakby miał za chwilę gasić pożar.
-Zupełnie nie mam pojęcia dlaczego tak jest? – zaczął –  Zawsze, co roku, gdziekolwiek bym był, na Wielkanoc jestem minuta przed dwunastą… Nie umiem tego wytłumaczyć, ale tak jest od urodzenia… – mówił i jednocześnie nerwowo kiwał się w przód i w tył, jakby w jakiś tajemniczy sposób to miało przyśpieszyć jazdę.
     W tradycji kościoła greek orthodox, Chrystus zmartwychwstaje dokładnie o północy – jest to więc strategiczny moment, żeby znaleźć się w kościele. W świątyni trzeba być w jeszcze przed dwunastą, bo właśnie wtedy rozpoczyna się najważniejsze święto dla Greków – Wielkanoc.
    Najwyraźniej nie tylko Jani co roku ma organizacyjny problem, bo kiedy wysiedliśmy z samochodu, w stronę kościoła, razem z nami biegła dość spora grupka, wymachująca trzymanymi w rękach świecami.
    Uff… oczywiście zdążyliśmy – na trzy minuty przed dwunastą!
klasztor Osios Lukas
      W tej najważniejszej dla Greków mszy w roku, uczestniczyliśmy w jednej z najpiękniejszych świątyń środkowej Grecji    klasztorze  Osios Lukas. Pochodzi on z XI  wieku, jest ogromny i naprawdę robi wielkie wrażenie. Ma mury grube na około metr, na sufitach średniowieczne freski, mozaiki zaliczane do największych arcydzieł średniowiecza, w powietrzu czuć zapach czasu. Sama msza odbyła się na dziedzińcu, który wypełniony był ludźmi po same brzegi. Każdy z wiernych trzymał w rękach zapaloną świecę. Przez całą uroczystość słychać było tylko męski śpiew bez oprawy żadnego instrumentu. Słowa pieśni były w języku starogreckim, więc  brzmiały tym bardziej egzotycznie. Im bliżej było północy, tym śpiew był mocniejszy. O godzinie dwunastej głos zabrzmiał tak mocno, jakby za chwilę miała zatrząść się ziemia. I rzeczywiście, kiedy wybiła punktualnie  dwunasta, wg tradycji greckiej zmartwychwstał Chrystus. Ludzie zaczęli prawie rzucać się sobie na szyję, obcałowywać i wypowiadać krótkie pozdrowienie: Chrystos anesti! Alitos anesti! (Chrystus zmartwychwstał! Tak, doprawdy zmartwychwstał!). Po czym, chwilę później zaczęto zapalać sztuczne ognie. Dla nas Polaków brzmi to zaskakująco, ale tak właśnie jest – Grecy na zmartwychwstanie Jezusa cieszą się tak bardzo, że zapalają sztuczne ognie!
wnętrze Osios Lukas

wnętrze Osios Lukas
       Dla Greków Wielkanoc jest o wiele  ważniejsza niż Boże Narodzenie i rzeczywiście jest to bardzo widoczne. Świętowanie Wielkanocy nie ogranicza się jednak tylko do komercyjnego opakowania. Grecy naprawdę chodzą wtedy do kościoła i przestrzegają wszelkich, nawet najdrobniejszych elementów tradycji. Wielkanoc to w Grecji szalenie radosne święto. Zastanawiałam się, czy też dlatego część ludzi była tak nietypowo jak dla mnie ubrana. Szczególnie jeśli chodzi o dziewczyny: w wysokich szpilkach, krótkich spódniczkach, mocnym makijażu – wyglądały trochę jakby za chwilę miały iść na wesele. Nie pasowało to do wyjścia do kościoła, ale cóż, przyzwyczaiłam się już, że co kraj to obyczaj.
     Tradycyjna msza po północy trwała jeszcze trzy godziny… Tak jest – od północy do trzeciej rano. Uczestniczyła w niej dość pokaźna ilość ludzi, w tym ku mojemu zaskoczeniu liczna młodzież. Wg tradycji czuwanie po Zmartwychwstaniu, to najbardziej uroczysta msza w kościele.
      Nie będę oszukiwać, że dotrwaliśmy do trzeciej w nocy… Podobnie jak większość Greków, po uroczystym rozpoczęciu świętowania Wielkanocy udaliśmy się na… dyskotekę J To też jest taka tradycja, że po mszy po północy,  dla uczczenia Zmartwychwstania, część ludzi idzie po prostu na imprezę. Moje skojarzenie z weselnym strojem przeważającej części kobiet, było więc całkiem trafionym tropem. Szkoda tylko, że nie wiedziałam że mam ubrać się, aż tak imprezowo… W zwykłej sukience i butach na niskim obcasie, zdaje się musiałam wyglądać jak zakonnica. Po północy Greczynki jak i z resztą Grecy uwielbiają wyglądać naprawdę wyzywająco.
     Mimo wszystko Zmartwychwstanie Chrystusa czciliśmy równie wesoło jak inni, w towarzystwie Czosnka, czyli kuzyna Janiego. Daję słowo – zupełnie bym go nie poznała. Również i Czosnek po północy przeszedł spektakularne przeobrażenie. Po rozciągniętych dresach i dziurawych kapciach pozostało już tylko wspomnienie. Śnieżnobiała koszula, czarne obcisłe w biodrach spodnie i złoty naszyjnik na odsłoniętej klacie… I dopiero wtedy mnie olśniło, że mieszkam z rodowitym przedstawicielem tzw. Greek – Lover, czyli typowym greckim podrywaczem, który na co dzień w dziurawych kapciach tylko tak się maskuje… Szybko więc się ocknęłam i postanowiłam wykorzystać sytuację. Po którymś tam piwie Czosnkowi rozwiązał się język, był skłonny do zwierzeń i dzięki temu wiem już wszystko o greckim podrywaniu – materiał na post jest w trakcie obróbki i zapraszam do czytania przed wakacjami – myślę, że wtedy każdej Polce szczególnie się przyda!

 

Co za biedak…
       Wracając jednak do tematu… Wróciliśmy jak można się było spodziewać bardzo późno, nocą. Za to nad ranem obudził nas zapach pieczonego barana. To jeden z najbardziej typowych widoków greckich Świąt Wielkanocnych. W Wielką Niedzielę już od rana przygotowuje się pieczonego barana. Towarzyszy temu oczywiście głośna muzyka, śpiewy i tańce. Przyznam jednak, że dla mnie widok obracającego się w całości na ruszcie zwierzęcia jest dość makabryczny. Widać wszystko: głowę, rozwartą szczękę jak również i oczodoły. Janiemu ciekła ślina, ja jednak poważnie myślałam nad przejściem na wegetarianizm. Wiem, że takie mięso smakuje zapewne wyśmienicie. Ale samego widoku jakby dopiero co hasającego zwierzęcia po prostu nie trawię.
     Kolejny dzień był również jeszcze świąteczny, ale każdy raczej koncentrował się na odpoczywaniu. Miasto jakby jeszcze bardziej zamarło w oczekiwaniu na obudzenie się dopiero następnego dnia wcześnie rano.
     I tak do następnego razu – dokładnie za rok! Mądrzejsza o następne doświadczenie, będę pamiętać żeby do kościoła założyć kilkucentymetrowe szpilki, a usta pokryć krwistą czerwienią!

4 554 thoughts on “Grecka Wielkanoc – wkładaj szpilki i bądź przed północą!… czwartek, 3 maja 2012

  1. Nieco to szokujące, ale w sumie podoba mi się takie świętowanie. W końcu tak pokazują prawdziwą radość, bawiąc się na imprezie, jakby to ich znajomy zmartwychwstał. A w Polsce? Takie to pobożne, sztywne i zachowawcze nieco…

  2. Masz rację, wszędzie w tym wszystkim ukryta jest prawda, świętowanie ma swój wyjątkowy klimat, czas staje w miejscu i chyba to właśnie tak ma być. Grecja często rozczarowuje ale trzeba przyznać że równie często zaczarowuje:)pozdrawiam

  3. Faktem jest iz Grecy wyznaja zdecydowana wyzszosc Wielkanocy nad Bozym Narodzeniem, pod kazdym wzgledem. Ale faktem tez jest iz wyjscie do dyskoteki po Anastasi jest raczej wyjatkiem niz regula. Faktem jest iz niewielki odsetek zostaje do konca nabozenstwa, Ci co fizycznie zmieszcza sie w kosciolkach, monastyrach ktorym blizej do kapliczek niz wielkich gmachow.Ale faktem tez jest, iz zdecydowana wiekszosc bierze zapalona lambade (swice) i z wielka starannoscia donosi zapalona do domu/rodzinnej tawerny/hotelu aby na progu opalic znak krzyza. Podobnie jak w Polsce na Trzech Kroli K+M+B. Potem zasiada do stolu w domu czy nie w domu i szaczyna sie stukanie jajkami, zwyciezca zgarnia dla siebie….pomyslnosc do kolejnej Paschy.Faktem jest iz Wielka Sobota kolo polnocy to najbardziej elegancki (niezaleznie od definicji elegancji) wieczor roku. Koscielna rewia mody porownywalna chyba tylko z parada futer na polskich cmentarzach na Wszystkich Swietych. Trzy czwarte tlumu w nowych butach, czesc jeszcze wciaz z metkami na podeszwach ;-)W niektorych regionach Grecji (w Epirze np i Tesalii) jest zwyczaj sponsorowania przez chrzestnych nowej pary butow jako dodatku do lambady, az do 18 roku zycia.

    • Ja tak naprawdę najbardziej byłam zdziwiona właśnie tą kościelną rewią mody! Naprawdę – WOW!! To chyba kolejne potwierdzenie, że Grecy naprawdę modę kochają – taki modny z nich kraj.Ale co do dyskotek po świętowaniu – tu bym się nie zgodziła, że to wyjątek. Właściwie każda impreza wypełniona była naprawdę po brzegi ludźmi, a Jani twierdzi, że tak też zawsze jest w Kavali. Wyglądało to bardzo – radośnie:))

    • Nie watpie, ze Grecy rozspiewanym i roztanczonym narodem sa a kazda okazja jest dobra. I nie tylko w Kavali ;-)Chodzi o to, ze po drodze z kosciola do disco najczesciej jest jednak wspolny stol i stukanie sie jajkami, tudziez wieksze lub mniejsze biesiadowanie bo Anastasi konczy 40 dniowy Wielki Post a noc jest dluga. Post, ktorego przestrzega tutaj w roznym stopni znacznie wiekszy odsetek Grekow niz Polakow w Polsce. Czesc ortodoksyjnie (bez miesa ale i produktow odzwierzecych typu mleko, feta, bez oliwy), czesc mniej (tylko bez miesa), czesc przez caly czas a czesc w Wielkim Tygodniu jeno. Dlatego co roku taki duzy odsetek ludzi laduje z roztrojem zoladka i innymi atrakcjami na ostrym dyzurze w niedzielna (po)poludnie..

    • O tych problemach żołądkowych po poście też słyszałam. No cóż nie ma się co dziwić… Ale swoją drogą Grecy to chyba jeden z naprawdę niewielu narodów w Europie, który tak tradycyjnie świętuje Wielkanoc.

  4. Udało mi się raz obchodzić Święta Wielkanocne w Grecji, byłam zachwycona, a teraz tyle dodatkowych informacji, dzięki Dorota i Bacha za Twoje trzy grosze.

  5. A ja w tym roku znowu wygralam bitwe na jajka 🙂 Juz rodzinka zaleczla mnie podejrzewac ze sobie przynosze drewniane 🙂 Ale faktem jest ze po mszy udajemy sie jak wiekszosc do domu na magiritse 🙂 A co do rewi mody to rzeczywiscie Grecy w tym dniu zamieniaja dresy na wystrzalowe ubrania 🙂

    • Magdoula, gratuluje.A moje dziewczyny kiedys dostaly takie drewniane bordowe jajko, do zludzenia przypominajace zywe 😉 ale tak sie bawily nim caly rok, ze akurat na Pasche gdzies wsiaklo.A ja mam dyspense na magieritse od czasu pierwszej ciazy. Cos mi sie wtedy kulinarnie odwidzialo i teraz dostaje stekaw miejsce zupki.

    • Ciekawego? Hmmmmm… to danie z kategorii LOVE or HATE. Takie greckie flaczki, jedzone tradycyjnie w Wielka Sobote po Anastasi a przed np dyskoteka 😉

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